Farrier Consultation
Solutions
Michael DeLeonardo Jr, CJF
Q: I'd like some advice regarding tool use and maintenance that will pro-
vide the most "bang for the buck." In other words, what will payoff the
most, both in cost savings, as well as wear and tear on my body?
- Tennessee farrier
A: This is a three-part question. Our tools are our bread and butter
and picking out the right tools and maintaining them is so important to our daily
work.
Our tools are very personal. There are many tools on the market, so picking out
the ones that fit your body is something you should take your time with.
You want to buy quality tools. I tell young farriers to make a list of all the
tools they need for the types of horses they work with. Once you get your basic tools, look at that list and once a week buy a tool that's on it and add it to your toolbox.Cost is not as important as quality.
Most of our tools have a long life if cared for properly. The cost of the tool should
not be the driving factor, but rather the quality of the tool material that's being
used.
There are several things to think about when maintaining tools. Hinged
tools should be oiled at least once a week with WD40. Keeping handles buffed and free of debris is very important because of nicks and burrs on the handles. These should be buffed out on a buffing wheel or fine sand paper.
Tools with cutting edges need to be kept sharp by using a Diamond sharpen-
ing tool or a buffing wheel. I don't like to use bastard files on knives, gouges and
nippers because they wear them out too fast and leave little grooves on them.
Other tools such as creases, pritchels and clinch cutters can be reworked in the
fire as well as by using power tools. We have to be extremely cautious with tools
that we hammer on because the heads mushroom out and can cause injury not
only to the farrier, but also to anyone standing nearby. Keeping them tidy and
rounded-up with a grinding wheel or sanding device will keep you safe.
With rasps - both trimming and finishing - keep a wire brush close by
and brush them regularly to give them a longer life.
When working on a horse, don't drop your tools on the ground. Keep them in
some type of box or cart so they'll last longer. The same applies to our trucks.
By keeping our tools in some type of storage containers, they will stay cleaner
and last longer.
To reduce wear and tear on the body, use power tools such as buffing wheels,
grinders, power sanders and a drill press for maintaining tools and making shoes.
You also need to have a good working forge. Working your shoes hot will take
away some of the concussion from your hands, arms and shoulders by lessening
the reverberation back into the body. This ultimately prolongs your health
and career.
Putting your anvil on a wooden stand or using thick rubber under the
anvil will help reduce concussion andringing, which will help protect your
hearing. Eye and ear protection are very important. The use of safety goggles
and earplugs can help prevent the loss of sight and hearing.
The height of the anvil is also very important. When you set the top of the
anvil face where your knuckles just touch it, you will find that you have less back-
aches and more swing.Reduce the stress to your body by keeping your tools in crisp condition.
- Michael S. DeLeonardo, CJF
Salinas, Calif.
AMERICAN FARRIERS JOURNAL www.americanfarrierS.com
April, 2013
Q & A Farrier Responses
Tools & Maintenance
Q: I have encountered quite a bit of seedy toe recently. Is it always best
to shoe the foot after debriding it? What if the horse has usually gone
barefoot?
- Georgia Farrier
A: In some parts of the country, there are veterinarians that refer
to it as white line disease. Whatever you want to call it - and for this roundtable I am going to call it seedy toe - it is found in the center of the toe in the wall itself. It can spread up the wall toward the coronet band and horizon tottally around the toe of the hoof. It is mainly confined to the toe region.
The causes that contribute to seedy toe might be fungus; improper hoof wall conformation that caused flaring of the wall; too much time between trimmings causing stress in the wall; a hoof wall abscess, which leaves a tract up the inside of the wall; and environmentalchanges (too wet or too dry).
There is also some thought that it may be hereditary.I treat seedy toe by fully debriding the grainy, foreign matter in the toe until I reach a healthy hoof wall. I then pack this area with Keratex putty, cover the
Keratex with cotton or gauze and place the shoe over that. I never leave the hole empty because debris can collect inside and then you are back to treating the same condition, but in a much more advanced state.
Each time I come out to reshoe the horse, I repeat this procedure until the seedy toe is completely healed.
If the seedy toe occurs with a barefoot horse, the horse must be kept barefoot. I follow the same procedure, but tape the hoof up with Elastikon medical tape and duct tape to prevent further debris from
getting into the hole. I repeat this procedure every time I see the horse, until the hole is healed.
- Michael S. DeLeo nardo, Ir;
Salinas, Calif.
AMERICAN FARRIERS JOURNAL www.americanfarriers.com
September/October, 2012
Seedy Toe
Q: What is the purpose of putting “Bell Boots” on the front feet of your horse..?
A: The purpose of putting bell boots on the front of a horse- if in the type of discipline in which the horse may reach upwards with his hind toes of the hooves , hitting the heel of the shoe of front hoof, hit the electric lights of the hoof, or the pastern area the bell boots will help protect the horse and help from pulling the shoe off. They may help prevent damage to the back of the pastern and the bulb. At speed events it is very easy for a horse to overreach with the hind and helps protect them. Also in young horses that have been shod for the first time and are learning to handle shoes and a rider sometimes their coordination is poor. Bell boots help protect the back pastern area front of the front limb.
-Michael DeLeonardo Jr.,CJF